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    Thanks for the advice - ended up not trying Library Expert out. Had too little lead time to try figuring out a whole new software.


    I did realise though, I'm on Eagle 7.7 (XP)

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    Went through that manual process... All the ERC checks O_O but now it works.

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    Well done

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    Well here's something interesting...


    I tried your suggestion of using a different SD card, but this time I decided to do the update/upgrade via the GUI while connected to the TV.


    Turns out the Pi3 isn't hanging as I had previously thought! - it's dropping the WiFi connection during the upgrade. With the TV and GUI I can reconnect the WiFi, but previously I was doing it via remote-desktop and so of course that would look like a hang from that perspective (and it was as good as a hang as I couldn't get to it at that point).


    So I think the card I was using might be alright after all (I'll try it again at another time).


    And the whole time the Pi3 is running, the GUI is showing that lightning bolt complaining about power issues. grrrr... So I suspect the dropped WiFi may be related to power issues after all... dunno.


    I'm using an iPad 2 charger at 5.1 volts and 2.2 Amps, so you'd think that would be plenty. I used what I thought was my "best" USB cable too. I might try a few other combinations to get an idea of what works best.


    Oh, and I remembered my less-than-accurate way of testing the USB cables - I just plugged them into my phone charger on one end and into my phone on the other end, and picked the "better" cables being the ones where the phone showed lower "minutes until fully charged". There was a difference of about 30 minutes between them.

    So I ordered a couple of micro-usb port breakout modules off eBay to allow more accurate testing in the future - plus those will be handy for powering breadboards too.


    Thanks again for all the advice (that goes to everyone else too!), I very much appreciate it.


    For now, I'll just wait for the new power supplies to arrive

    In the meantime, I'll try to keep the Pi3 WiFi usage to a dull roar instead.




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    Oh and one other thing that may be suspect, that I keep forgetting about...


    I'm using a little wireless keyboard - a small dongle plugs into the usb port. I think it's bluetooth.


    However, when I was using remote desktop that was not connected (and the USB dongle was not in it).


    edit: it still gives that lightning bolt without the wireless keyboard USB dongle connected.




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    The Ipad chargers are rated at that, but they need to sense the device at the end in order to deliver it.


    There was an article in Silicon Chip regarding the voltage required on the data pins, in order to force them into giving the required amount.


    Tablet chargers are also a hidden mystery as my daughter found out in Japan when she took a normal charger.

    It seems that many detect the hardware and will bump the voltage to 15v out the USB socket to facilitate charging the tablet.

    The rest of the time they are a plain looking 5v USB socket supply.



    Nice to see there is some progress and yes the devices hanging off the USB can sometimes be the problem.




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  • 06/23/17--23:51: Net Classes do not persist
  • Hello All:


    It seems that there is a problem with Circuit Studio regarding Net Classes as I create them but at some point (after running a Design Rules check ?) the Classes are lost.

    Is anyone also having this issue?




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    We can always tell when there is a disturbance in the force!



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    Do you think these would work? .  I have already purchased them for my wall plates.

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    I also have this issue.


    WIndows 10 Professional x64 updated to Creators Update

    Version 1703, Build 15063.413

    Prod. ID:  00330-80000-00000-AA952

    Processor:  AMD FX-8350, 8-core, 4GHz

    RAM:  16GB

    Video:  nVidia GeForce GTX 550 Ti, 1GB GDDR5

       Driver: nVidia 382.53



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    get hot enough to boil water

    Well, that is alarming... okay a DC/DC buck regulator, what exactly does it or what is the difference?


    I wanted to use the 30 NeoPixel version of their strips.

    30 NeoPixels × 60 mA ÷ 1,000 = 1.8 Amps minimum   // for one Strip and adafruit said 60mA is the worst case scenario soo...

    (12v - 5v) * 1.8A = 12,6W                                             // could the regulator get really so hot to boil water at 12.6W, I don't want this to be dangerous...


    When I use the DC/DC buck converter should I replace it with all pf the existing regulator or should I use only one to power the NeoPixel and the Arduino?


    DO you mean this? >KLICK<

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    UPDATE: Thread update.


       Bluescreen in Circuit Studio - Vault Explorer (Win10Pro)



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  • 06/24/17--13:42: Problem with code
  • E17459E8834336.7n3o7d2e513:bettersweeps:W601  I'm just providing the error code I don't really see a problem, probably the iPad minis compatibility. They're not able to work properly with many sites and/or apps.

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    Does your wife have any unmarried sisters?

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  • 06/24/17--16:47: Spam needs deleting
  • Hi!

    A user 'uptownborg' has created lots of spam status messages for removal.






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    I want a pretty long runtime for the circuit

    The first comment I'd make is the neopixels don't need to be run at 60mA (all three on).

    They are BRIGHT so unless it is in sunlight you may find you can get away with 30mA or less when it's running.

    If you're only using one colour it will be a third of whatever the figure is.


    The DC/DC converter is the best option to eliminate the heat component and save on energy wasted.

    You also gain a bit more run time using these.

    So using 85% efficiency 1.8A out is approx 0.92A in at 12v


    0.92A = 920mA x 5 strips = 4600mA (ignore the fan)

    19600 / 4600 = 4.2 hours at FULL BRIGHTNESS


    One thing to be aware of, most of the rated mA on these battery packs aren't.

    However I think considering it won't always be on white, you should get  4 hours easily.




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    If you are interested in connecting original controllers to the Pi like arcade controllers or other original controllers like SNES or Genesis/Megadrive controllers, you might be interested in the ControlBlock. It was designed specifically for that use case: It even provides a power switch functionality.

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  • 06/25/17--16:44: Re: Buoyancy and floating
  • Hi Damion,


    This cylinder would displace 100 liters of water. To keep it vertical you would have to find some way to keep its center of gravity below the water line otherwise it will seek a position of lowest energy on its side. This would probably involve adding more weight as ballast to one end of the cylinder. As it is stated the 100kg would require 1/4 of the volume of the cylinder to displace enough water to float it so you have adequate volume to support near 400 kg.



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  • 06/25/17--16:46: Re: Buoyancy and floating
  • Another thought. If you can hang the ballast outside the cylinder like a canon ball on a chain from the bottom of the cylinder this will do the best job of lowering the center of gravity.



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  • 06/25/17--16:48: Re: Why are you here?
  • I found Element14 while in high school while just realizing my love for electronics/electrical/computer engineering. It was full of great resources and amazig opportunities. I have been lucky enough to be exposed to many different platforms and technologies through Element14. And hope to continue to learn and share the knowledge to other new members as well.

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